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If this outpost in the western province of the Solomon Islands isn't the final frontier of diving, it's at least in the neighborhood. As Aussie divers have known for some time, Ghizo's underwater world is filled with great reefs, staggering numbers of fish both large and small – and some vivid reminders of the World War II, including wrecks of a Japanese transport ship and an American Hellcat fighter plane. The main town, Gizo (yes, the spelling is different) is the second largest in the island chain, but the main street is lined mostly with small stores and an open-air market ...

On Bondi Beach you can spot just about every Australian beach cliche: bronzed Aussie lifesavers pulling pale British tourists from the surf, topless beach bunnies baking themselves senseless under the blazing sun, men in singlets sipping Victoria Bitter beer and children nursing rapidly disintegrating ice creams.