Barbuda



Barbuda
Caribbean

You’ve probably know Antigua: resorts aplenty, more than 300 beaches, a favorite with sailors… But what about Barbuda? In the West Indian dual nation of Antigua and Barbuda, she is the forgotten stepchild – and for some sophisticated travelers, that’s all the more reason to count their blessings. Barbuda is actually about half the size of her glamorous sibling (and only a 20-minute flight away). However, as sister islands go, A & B are worlds apart. Barbuda has more than its share of glorious (and virtually deserted) beaches, but most of the island is low and scrubby, and the small population (about a thousand) is centered in the small town of Codrington. Nature lovers will enjoy the island’s famous Frigate Bird Sanctuary, the reefs offshore provide pristine snorkeling and are home to centuries of shipwrecks. The getaway-from-it-all factor? A solid 10. Aside from guesthouses, lodgings are mostly limited to a handful of upscale resorts. (How upscale? Well, Princess Diana was a frequent guest at one club.) If you haven’t heard about Barbuda, it’s probably because it’s in a West Indian time warp, the way the much of the Caribbean was decades ago.



Barbuda is one of those very few islands in the Caribbean that remains--and probably will remain for some time--so undeveloped as to seem positively deserted at times. With the exception of the guests of the island's small number of accommodations, the population seems largely to consist of the graceful Fregata magnificens, or frigate bird. As the birds possess a marked preference for the northwest lagoon, Barbuda's seemingly endless white and pink sand beaches are left to the peaceful wanderings of those lucky enough to sojourn here.

Activities on Barbuda are appropriately relaxed, including beachcombing (on the northeastern Atlantic coast), fishing and hunting and, at the island's resorts, golf, tennis, snorkeling, diving, or simply soaking up the sun and the calm. Points of interest include the Frigate Bird Sanctuary, the truly noteworthy pink and white sand beaches, and an abundance of shipwrecks and beautiful reefs. Barbuda can be reached easily from Antigua, either by air (a 20-minute flight, twice daily) or by boat (in three hours). The island is home to the luxurious K-Club, Coco Point Lodge and Hotel Palmetto resorts, as well as to a number of other hotels and comfortable guest houses.

Barbuda's history has been intimately tied to that of Antigua for centuries. The first early attempts to settle Barbuda (by both the British and French) were failures, and it wasn't until 1666 that the British established a colony strong enough to survive the ravages of both nature and the Caribs. In 1680, four years before he began cultivating sugar on Antigua, Christopher Codrington was granted (with his brother John) a lease to land in Barbuda. With subsequent leases that granted them additional rights to the substantial wreckage along Barbuda's reefs, they became the island's preeminent family. For much of the eighteenth century the Codrington land on Barbuda was used to produce food and to supply additional slave labour for the Codrington sugar plantations on Antigua, and so the Barbuda's fortunes rose and fell with those of its larger neighbour. Testament to the influence of the Codringtons remains today, both in the island's place names and in its architectural remains. On Barbuda's highest point (124 feet) are the ruins of the Codrington estate, Highland House, and on the island's south coast still sits the 56-foot high Martello castle and tower, a fortress that was used both for defense and as a vantage from which to spot valuable shipwrecks on the outlying reefs.
 

Barbuda is located


  • between 17.31° - 17.45°N and 61.44° - 61.53°
  • in the middle of the northeastern Caribbean Leeward Islands
  • 120 km to the east of the Virgin Islands
  • 40 km north of its sister island Antigua
  • 725 km north of Trinidad and Tobago

Barbuda is about 175 sq km if the large lagoon on the west side is included in the total area. Two-thirds of the island consists of a flat plain raised only a few feet above sea level. The other third, the Highlands, is a relatively flat tableland with a maximum height of 42 metres.

Map of Barbuda

Unlike most of the islands which form the eastern boundary of the Caribbean Sea, Barbuda is not of volcanic origin.The island is limestone and represents a coral reef which was raised above the sea in two successive stages. In the south the Highlands slope down to meet the plain. On the eastern windward side the Atlantic Ocean washes up on mostly rocky headlands. Much of the coastline is characterised by beach sands and fringed with coral reefs. Throughout its history Barbuda has been an exceptionally dangerous hazard to shipping.

Click here for a satellite view of Barbuda taken from the Google Earth software.

Climate

Barbuda's climate is sub-tropical with a temperature range from 18°C to 45°C. Rainfall is seasonal, with an average of 100 cm per year. There are no streams or lakes; fortunately underground water is found in reasonable quantities and water is obtained from wells. Vegetation tends to be scrubby woodland, with few trees over 10 metres, and numerous cacti and succulents. In contrast Codrington Village has colourful displays of Bougainvillea, Hibiscus, Pride of Barbados, and Lady of the Night, as Barbudans lovingly tend their gardens.

Places of interest

George Jeffrey at Darby Sink Hole (Chris Doyle)

Caves

As an island composed of limestone, Barbuda has many caves to explore. There are two main sites at Castle Hill and Two Foot Bay. The road to Two Foot Bay is more accessible to visitors so these are most commonly visited, Castle Hill is a long and bumpy ride. The caves at Two Foot Bay range from small crawl-in holes to huge cavernous areas, complete with stalactites and stalagmites and many fossils. Barbudans have camped in the caves for centuries and have given them names, such as "The Fridge", which as its name suggests is cool and breezy. In Indian Cave at Two Foot Bay it is possible to see drawings (petroglyphs) left by the original inhabitants of Barbuda, the Arawak or the Siboney. Visit our Amerindian page to learn more about these people.

Darby Cave

Three and half miles north-east of Codrington Village is Darby Cave, a spectacular sink hole in the middle of the bush. It is well worth a visit to see the huge deep hole suddenly appear in front of you and wonder how it got there! The tops of tall palm trees are suddenly at eye level. Darby Sink Hole is over 100 metres in diameter and around 70 feet deep. One side of the hole has been greatly undercut and stalagmites up to 8 feet high have formed under the overhang. The vegetation resembles a mini rainforest with palms, ferns, and lianas. A local guide is essential for this trip.

Darby Sink Hole (Chris Doyle) Dark Cave (Chris Doyle)

Dark Cave

Dark Cave is two miles to the south of Darby Cave. The cave has a narrow entrance leading to a vast cavern containing pools of water, which were probably a water source for Amerindian inhabitants as artefacts have been found nearby. Dark Cave is the habitat for several rare species of crustacea, including a blind shrimp.


Historical Sites

Throughout the island are the remains of settlements of the Arawaks, the first Amerindian inhabitants of Barbuda. Recently a human skeleton was found, dating back to these times. There are many known sites and it is quite easy to find fragments of pottery and conch shells used centuries ago. Visitors must obtain permission from the Barbuda Council before excavating any remains and it is essential that all artefacts are presented to the Council in order that they remain on the island. Click archaeology to learn more about excavations in Barbuda.

Codrington House

The ruins of Codrington House, known locally as "Willy Bob" or Highland House, is situated on the highest part of the island, about three miles north of Codrington Village. The floors and lower walls, and a large cistern are all that remain of the family settlement of the slave owners, the Codringtons. The view from the house is the best way to see most of the coastline of Barbuda. Visit historical notes to learn more about the colonial history of Barbuda.

the Martello Tower, showing the gun platform (Fiona Jack)

The Martello Tower

The Martello Tower is near the beach at River, three miles south of the village. It is impossible to miss this site, all visitors pass by on their way to Coco Point and Access Beach. The tower has a raised gun platform and extremely thick walls, but is missing the floors. This type of fortification was modelled on a tower built on Cape Mortella during the Napoleonic Wars in the early nineteenth century. However, there was a fort on the site before, probably built by the Spanish.

Government House

Government House is located in the centre of Codrington Village, behind the Post Office. The building dates from 1694 and by the gate has a block for a rider to stand on to mount and dismount a horse. The building was lived in by the Wardens, who were the representatives of the British Government from the time the Codringtons left until 1976. The stables for Government House are now used as classrooms by the Holy Trinity School. Unfortunately the house was severely damaged by Hurricane Luis in 1995 and has yet to be repaired.

The Ginnery

an old house in the village (Chris Doyle

The Ginnery is one of the buildings used by the Barbuda Council and was previously used as classrooms for the school. Salt and cotton were stored here from the days of slavery until well into the 1900s. The salt was still coated on the walls 10 years ago when the web designer taught here and one could see dates and quantities stencilled on the beams.

Other original buildings

In Codrington Village are many original buildings, old houses, and dry stone walls. Some have been incorporated into newer buildings and others remain. At one time the whole village was walled to prevent animals from entering. There are several wells that are still used by Barbudans for their water supply.

Scattered round the island are many ruined stone look-outs and storage buildings. The one at Gun Shop Cliff, to the east of Highland House, is said to have been erected in the late nineteenth century as part of a phosphate mining operation which took place in one of the caves.
 
 
 
Barbuda - Things to do and see
 

spectacular beaches!

Barbuda is one of the best beach destinations in the Caribbean; it has unspoilt beaches on all sides of the island. Usually you will be alone on the beach, except on the hotel beaches. Hotel beaches are open to all visitors as long as non-guests keep to the waterline.

the beach at Palmetto Point - strong currents here (Fiona Jack)

Most of the beaches have no facilities so it is important to remember to take water and shade or find a place to keep out of the sun for some of the time. In some places when you have seen one beach you have seen them all, but in Barbuda each one is different, better than the last, and interesting enough to keep even the most cynical holidaymaker happy for hours.

The beaches can have dangerous currents at certain times of the year, but there are also areas that are perfect for children or non-swimmers, with shallow water and rock pools filled with tiny fish and crabs. There are aerial displays provided by pelicans diving close to the beach and everywhere you swim you will see fish darting about in the water.

On holiday weekends the beaches fill with Barbudans who take picnics very seriously and bring loud music, food, and truckloads of people to spend the day in the sea. In some of the cave areas people camp for several nights, catching and cooking fish, deer, and land turtle, which are often shared by everyone.

exploring barbuda

At Two Foot Bay and in other areas of the island there are huge caves to explore. In one are ancient cave drawings and in others it is possible to climb right through to the top of the Highlands and see for miles. Other caves go underground and underwater and require expert knowledge to explore them. Darby Cave is an extraordinary example of a sink hole and popular with visitors. It takes approximately 45 minutes to walk there from Highland House.

Arthur Lewis - a diver and fisherman (Fiona Jack)

In very dry weather the salt ponds sparkle with crystalline sea salt that is still harvested here. A bush safari will delight bird watchers and nature lovers, stopping for a picnic in the shade and a swim in the sea.

diving

Around the coast of Barbuda there are many wrecks from different periods of the island's history. There are experienced divers on the island who can guide visitors to the wrecks and it is possible to hire scuba diving equipment. Wrecks are often in dangerous water and it is important to seek local advice before attempting to explore them.

fishing

As there are many fishermen and women on the island it is always possible to go fishing, either out at sea or in the calm lagoon water. Many people have boats and will take visitors for fishing trips, bringing home barracuda, shark, tuna, and other types of local fish. Catching lobster is also relatively easy as they are a specialty of the island and can be caught by hand or in specially crafted fish pots.

an adolescent Frigate Bird nesting in mangroves (Fiona Jack)

frigate bird sanctuary

One of the main tourist attractions is the Magnificent Frigate Bird Sanctuary, situated in the Codrington Lagoon. It is a forty-minute boat ride and is a spectacular sight even for non-bird watchers. In the mating season from September to April this rare bird displays a huge red breast to attract a female mate and they lay one egg on a nest, built precariously on the mangrove. These birds cannot walk or swim; they soar high in the clouds and live solely on fish, which they often steal from other birds, giving them their local name Man'o'war. They have few predators here and this nesting site is one of the most important in the world for these endangered birds.

eating out

There are two restaurants in Barbuda, several snack shops and five or six bars ranging from rum shops to bars with TV and pool tables. Most cater for local people's needs as few guests from the hotels frequent them, those that do enjoy their lively weekend atmosphere. The best way to buy local food is to go out to a food fair or fish fry at the weekend. There are always people barbecuing on the street and the fish is always fresh from the sea. Local specialties at food fairs include deer meat, land turtle, lobster, crab, conch, local beef and lamb or goat, with side dishes of rice, fungi, or dumplings. Local drinks include soursop, ginger beer, sea moss, and tamarind juices.

shopping

There are several shops that sell groceries and fresh food. All supplies come by boat or by plane from various places via Antigua. The best time to look for fruit and vegetables is when the boat comes in on Friday or Saturday. Many people sell their own produce at different times throughout the year and this is when the best organically grown produce is available.

a silk painting by the artist Claire Frank (Fiona Jack)

Fish is brought in at the Lagoon Wharf nearly every day in good weather. Locally produced meat is often for sale from a table on the street; there are no butchers, it helps to remember those posters in the butchers showing where sirloin steak is on an animal before you buy!

There are several variety stores selling all kinds of essential household items and clothes, many of them have gifts and T-shirts.

There is a small shop where local handicrafts are for sale to visitors and an Artcafe where visitors are welcome to read information about the island, buy a map, or seek advice. This is the residence of the artist, Claire Frank, who specialises in hand-painted silk pictures and cards.

 
 



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